Certified Environmental Hygienist Phillip Fry recommends that removing and discarding moldy building materials into a dumpster is the most economical and effective way to do mold removal.
Montrose, MI, April 22, 2014 -- “Removing moldy building materials and throwing them into the dumpster is often the least costly and most effective mold remediation,” according to Phillip Fry, Certified Environmental Hygienist and webmaster since 1999 of the do-it-yourself mold advice website www.moldinspector.com.
“Most mold remediation projects fail to solve all of a home or commercial building’s total mold infestation problems because the property owner, manager, or mold remediation company does not go far enough in inspecting, removing, and discarding moldy ceiling, wall, and floor building materials,” adds Mr. Fry, who is co-manager of the international EnviroFry mold inspection and removal company.
“If a residence or workplace has a substantial or ongoing roof or plumbing leak, the intruding water and the resulting toxic mold growth can travel far and often unhidden inside the structure.”
“For this reason, the property owner, manager, or mold services company needs to use a very lengthy fiber optics video inspection borescope to look (through a two inch wide, circular insertion hole) for mold growth inside each and every ceiling, wall, and floor section for a long way in all directions, including downward into the floor levels, basement, and crawl space beneath the beginning point of the water intrusion,” suggests Mr. Fry, who is the author of five mold advice ebooks available at www.moldmart.net.
Through the same entry hole, an environmental hygienist or professional industrial hygienist can insert a tube from an air testing cassette to collect a sample of the air inside the building cavity for sending to an accredited mold laboratory for mold species identification and quantification.
That same entry point can also be used to kill mold inside the cavity by inserting a hose from a high output ozone generator (first step) and/or a mold fogging machine (second step) to fog sufficient amounts of an EPA-registered fungicide. Home model and contractor model ozone generators are available at www.ozonegeneratorkillsmold.com.
Even better would be to remove the outside ceiling, floor, or wall surface to facilitate more thorough mold inspection, plus removal and dumpster disposal of the moldy surface and the building materials hidden beneath the surface.
Once a wall, ceiling, or floor’s timber “bones” are exposed, the mold growth on such timbers can be removed with a wire brush attachment to a power grinder, a power sanding machine, or by hand-held tools such as wire brushes. If the timbers cannot be cleaned to a mold-free condition, the timbers should be removed and thrown into the dumpster.
After the timbers are thoroughly mold remediated or replaced, the timbers must be encapsulated on all sides and edges with latex enamel paint containing one-half pound of either EPA-registered Tim-Bor or boric acid powder. Tim-Bor and boric acid powder are both long-term mold preventatives.
The paint glues the mold protective crystals directly on to the wood and helps to keep high humidity and future water leaks from penetrating into the timbers. Replacement drywall, plywood, and other building materials should also be Tim-Bor or boric acid painted on all surfaces and edges. Tim-Bor can be purchased online at www.timborprofessional.com, and boric acid powder is available at www.moldmart.net.
Both do-it-yourself and professional mold removal firms should follow the ten steps for safe and effective mold removal, as posted at www.moldinspector.com/mold_removal.htm.
Phillip Fry, Co-Manager
10104 Sheridan Rd.,
Montrose, Michigan 48457
Phone Toll-Free 1-866-300-1616 in USA and Canada
Cell Phone 1-480-310-7970 Worldwide